View Full Version : Found this looking to find out what exactly "nut grass" is . . . .

03-31-2009, 01:12 AM
NOW - before I go any farther I want to say that I am as a rule against "organic" crap for the sake of organic. It's generally BULLSHIT and I'm not buying - but every once in a while you find something like this:


Fertilizwes kill benegicial microbes that enrich the soil. Putting dry molasses ( sugar works jusr as well ) keeps them alive.
Weeds like poor soil, and will not thrive in rich soil.
Enrich the soil, and the weed problem will go away.
Nut gtrass also loves compact soil.
if you have clay soil,you really aren't going to get a beautiful lawn, until you loosen up that clay. We have a bad clay problem here too.
I struggled with that clay for years, and finally just tilled stuff in to loosen it. I have had good, loose, soil ever since.
Surprisingly both my St. Augustine and Burmuda came back after the tilling. We didn't have to replant, but just startinf from scratch will save time and frustration over battling with it for years.
Go to the nursery and get cedar bark mulch. I use cedar because it repels so many insects, like termites, fleas, and ticks.
Put this combination together and till it in.

To 4 bags of bark mulch. put 1 bag peat moss and one or two bags of humus. You want when you have finished tilling, an equal amount of this and existing soil. You wsnt to till down at least 6 or 8 inches.
Careful with the peat moss, because a little too much, and your soil will become too acidic.
If your soil is pretty loose, you can add a larger percentage of soil to mix. If your soil is already acidic, leave off the peat moss.
Cedar also takes 2 years to compost, as hardwood bark mulch composts in 1 year, so it holds your soil looser while you have more time to improve the soil.
You can still fertilizer, if you want, although I haven't put a grain of fertilizer fown in 5 years.
BUT,,,, when you put down the fertilizer, put down the sugar and water them both in together. That will keep most of the microbes alive.
They work 24/7, all year round enriching your soil.
For the last 5 years, I have only put sugar in the spring and fall, and my grass is dark green, thick, and weed free.I think I'm going to try this this year . . . . :)

03-31-2009, 10:44 AM
Amending soil is a good idea no matter where you live. It's flatly untrue that weeds dislike or don't thrive in well tilled and fertilized soil. On the contrary, they adore it. It's just easier to pull to them.

We also have clay soil out here and I've found that the best way to rehab it is to work in compost as often as possible. I grind up leaves in the fall and cover the beds to a depth of about 4 - 6 inches. This breaks down to about 1 - 2 inches by spring and I just work it in. I make compost furiously from April through October and this gets top dressed around the larger plants and worked in when I change out things (changing lettuces to radishes in July, for instance).

There are a lot of "things" that enjoy sugar and not all of them are friendly to lawns. I broadcast clover in my lawn every spring to fix nitrogen and thicken everything up. The bees love it and it makes for an appealing old fashioned look (if that's what you're going for). Clover is drought tolerant and it will self-seed if you don't use weed n' feed applications. :)

03-31-2009, 11:09 AM
Nut sedge or nut grass is what grew thru my pool liner! Im ripping the old liner out and dousing the area with this -
SedgeHammer herbicide knocks out nutsedge without injury to turfgrass, established ornamentals, shrubs, and/or trees. SedgeHammer provides post-emergence control of both purple and yellow nutsedge. SedgeHammer also controls many broadleaf weeds and suppresses kyllinga.

I'm going to spray an acres worth for the pool area!

03-31-2009, 12:16 PM
I have Bermuda & St. Augustine in my yard. Rather than use an expensive weed and feed fertilizer or do any spraying, I buy 8-8-8 fertilizer (the cheap stuff at Home Depot) and spread it when the temp is over 90 degrees; do NOT water for several days. This will stunt the weeds and the grass will crowd out the weeds.

03-31-2009, 07:54 PM
I like the idea of the ceader tilled into the soil to keep ou the pesky type bugs. :)

03-31-2009, 08:07 PM
I like the idea of the ceader tilled into the soil to keep ou the pesky type bugs. :)

Uh, think about it. There may be a better bug-repellent strategy. I use cedar for mulch for decorative purposes. We have relatively few destructive bugs up here but those we have seem unfazed by cedar.